Qeparo is two villages stacked vertically. The ghostly stone skeleton of Old Qeparo clings to the mountainside, and the humble beachfront strip of New Qeparo sits below. Fewer than 40 people live year-round in the upper village, where half the houses are roofless and fig trees erupt through abandoned doorways. The beach below is a coarse-pebble crescent with water so transparent you can count sea urchins from the shore.
The dual-village setup means Qeparo offers something the rest of the Riviera does not: genuine ruins you can wander alone, followed by a salt-tinged swim and grilled sea bream 200 vertical metres below. It is 12 kilometres south of Himare on the SH8.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Best For | Abandoned village exploration, quiet beach days, sunset photography |
| Accessibility | Paved road to New Qeparo; steep cracked tarmac to Old Qeparo (driveable, tight turns) |
| Ideal Months | May to June and September for comfortable hiking temperatures |
| Cost Tier | Budget |
| The Secret Factor | Hike the old donkey trail between upper and lower Qeparo at golden hour. Forty minutes of stone steps, zero people, and an unobstructed view of Corfu |
How to Get There
The SH8 coastal road connects Qeparo directly to Himare (15 minutes north) and Saranda (45 minutes south). The turnoff is clearly signed. New Qeparo beach road has ample free parking. To reach Old Qeparo, continue up the switchback road from the village centre. It is paved but narrow, with a few sections of broken asphalt. A standard 2WD car can manage it dry. No bus service. Furgons can drop you at the SH8 junction, leaving a 1.5-kilometre walk to the beach.
What to See and Do
- Old Qeparo at dawn or dusk: The abandoned hilltop village is a maze of arched stone doorways, collapsed churches, and one still-functioning monastery. The light at sunset turns the stone amber.
- Qeparo Beach: The main beach is coarse pebble with a few sunbeds (400 LEK). Walk 300 metres south past the small headland for a completely empty stretch sheltered by olive trees.
- Church of Saint Demetrius: An 18th-century structure in Old Qeparo still holding occasional services. The fresco fragments inside are faded but original.
- Eat at Taverna Lula: Family-run spot on the beach road serving grilled qofte, squid, and byrek made that morning. 600 to 900 LEK per meal.
The Insider Checklist
- Old Qeparo has no shops, no cafes, no water. Bring at least 1.5 litres if hiking.
- New Qeparo has one tiny market. Cash only. Nearest ATM is in Himare.
- Sunbeds are sparse. Bring a towel regardless.
- The coastal wind picks up around 14:00. Morning swimming is calmer.
- Do not attempt driving the upper road in heavy rain. The surface gets slick.
