This 12-day expedition is Albania’s most comprehensive self-drive itinerary, covering the country from the Albanian Alps in the north to the Ionian Riviera in the south. Designed for driving enthusiasts and independent explorers, the route connects virtually every major destination in Albania through a combination of paved highways, mountain passes, and one of the world’s most beautiful ferry journeys.
The journey begins in Tirana with two days to explore the capital and nearby Kruje. Skanderbeg Square, BunkArt museums, the Blloku district, and the Dajti cable car provide a comprehensive introduction to modern Albania. Kruje’s castle and Ottoman bazaar add historical depth.
Head north to Shkoder and into the Albanian Alps. The Komani Lake ferry, a 3-hour journey through sheer mountain gorges with emerald water, connects to the Valbona Valley. The Valbona-to-Theth trek across the 1,795-meter Valbona Pass is one of Europe’s great day hikes. The descent from Theth on the paved mountain road back to Shkoder completes the northern loop.
Return south along the Adriatic coast. Durres offers the Roman amphitheatre and seaside charm before heading inland to Berat, the UNESCO City of a Thousand Windows, with its castle quarter and wine country. Continue to Gjirokaster, the stone-built UNESCO sister city with its massive castle and traditional tower houses.
The southern Riviera stretch is the trip’s scenic climax. Saranda, the Blue Eye spring, Butrint National Park, and the Ksamil Islands fill two days of coastal exploration. The drive north along the SH8 through Himare, Dhermi, and the legendary Llogara Pass is the most spectacular road in the country. Apollonia Archaeological Park and Ardenica Monastery near Fier provide the final historical stops before returning to Tirana.
Total driving distance is approximately 1,400 kilometers over 12 days. An SUV is recommended for the mountain roads to Theth and Valbona. Fuel stations are sparse in the mountains: fill up in Shkoder, Valbona, and Vlore before long stretches. This itinerary is only fully passable from July to October when the Valbona Pass is snow-free.
