Porto Palermo is a minor miracle of military architecture: a triangular Venetian-Ottoman fortress sitting on a small island connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway of stone. Ali Pasha of Tepelene supposedly built it in the early 19th century, and for a brief period it served as a naval base, a prison, and possibly a residence for one of his wives. Today it sits almost empty, guarded by a single caretaker who collects 300 LEK at the gate and then leaves you alone to explore vaulted stone chambers and cannon ports aimed at an empty bay.
The bay itself is a deep natural harbour surrounded by olive-covered hills. The water is flat and startlingly clear. A handful of locals swim off the rocks near the fortress causeway. There is no beach infrastructure, no sunbeds, no bar. The silence is broken only by the occasional military speedboat from the Albanian naval base tucked into the northern corner of the bay.
Porto Palermo sits on the SH8 coastal road, roughly 10 kilometres north of Borsh and 15 kilometres south of Himare.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Best For | Fortress exploration, history and swimming combo, offbeat photography |
| Accessibility | Directly on the SH8; paved causeway to the fortress; gravel shoulder parking |
| Ideal Months | April to June and September to October; the fortress has zero shade and bakes in July and August |
| Cost Tier | Budget |
| The Secret Factor | Climb to the fortress rooftop via the spiral stone staircase for a 360-degree panorama of the entire horseshoe bay. The caretaker rarely tells visitors the roof is accessible |
How to Get There
Porto Palermo is directly on the SH8, clearly signed in both directions between Himare and Borsh. Pull off onto the gravel shoulder and walk the stone causeway to the fortress entrance (100 metres). Parking is informal but plentiful on the roadside. No public transport stops here specifically, but any furgon between Himare and Saranda can drop you at the turnoff. A taxi from Himare costs roughly 1,000 LEK.
What to See and Do
- Explore the fortress: Entry is 300 LEK. You will likely be alone. Wander through the vaulted chambers, climb to the roof, and stand at the cannon ports looking out over the bay.
- Swim off the rocks: The rocks around the causeway are flat and easy to enter from. The water drops to 2 metres within a few steps. Exceptionally clear.
- Visit the submarine bunker: At the northern end of the bay, a Cold War-era submarine pen is carved into the hillside. It is not officially open but the entrance is visible from the road and makes for an eerie photo.
- Church of Saint Nicholas: A small, often-locked Orthodox church sits just north of the fortress on the shore. If the caretaker is around, he may open it.
The Insider Checklist
- The fortress roof has no guardrails. Mind your step near the edges.
- Zero shade on the fortress island. Bring a hat and water if visiting between 11:00 and 16:00.
- The bay is used by the Albanian navy. Do not photograph the naval base buildings at the north end.
- There is no shop or cafe at the fortress. The nearest supplies are in Himare or Borsh.
- The fortress is atmospheric at sunset, but the gate closes around 18:00. Confirm closing time with the caretaker.
